Saturday, August 7, 2010

Sailing - Dubrovnik to Split

Sunday morning we had bit of a sleep in and then packed up our room. Our lovely host gave us a ride down to the port where we met up with our Travel Talk tour – 7 nights on a pirate ship sailing (motoring really, they don’t use the sails) along the Dalmatia Coast. The tour and the boat were awesome. I don’t know that I would recommend Travel Talk, we were a bit annoyed they never actually sent booking confirmations and there were heaps of hidden costs not included in the tour cost. That said we were in the right spot at the right time, so even without a confirmation we got on the boat, unlike one of the passengers who had to meet us on the second day after missing the boat!
Our room on the boat was very disappointing also, not enough space for the two of us to stand up at the same time, and the toilet was the shower in less than a meter square, which smelt all week like stagnant water and leaked into our cabin. That said, not all rooms were like this, other rooms on the boat seemed much nicer, so I guess it’s just luck of the draw.

Day 1: Dubrovnik, Mljet. After Captain and Crew introductions (01:30pm) we'll depart Dubrovnik and cruise down the coast to Mljet, a fantastic island covered by forests and dotted by fields, vineyards and small villages. Opened in 1960, Mljet National Park occupies the western third of the island and surrounds two saltwater lakes, Malo Jezero and Veliko Jezero. Before arriving in Mljet we take a swimming break at one of the amazing Croatian bays. After arriving to this impressive island our tour leader takes us on an orientation walk. Your afternoon is free to visit the salt lakes in the National Park, enjoy the sun and sea or participate in the activities like kayaking, cycling, scooting around the National Park.
The first day was all very exciting. First day on the ship meeting the crew, who were all lovely and the other passengers. Our boat is the only boat on the coast that is a reconstructed pirate ship, it looks awesome, aargh! The swim in a bay was more a short stop in a straight, meaning everyone was getting dragged away from the boat by the current, but I think this was because we were behind schedule. The weather seemed good, hot and sunny, but by Croatian standards it may have been a bit rough, we didn’t really notice! The first night we had a beer party on the boat, with drink specials and a cooked dinner, the chef on the boat is awesome!

Day 2: Mljet, Trstenik. Early in the morning we cruise south and take a swimming break at one of the bays near Loviste, a delightful fishing village and harbour on the Peljesac Peninsula before cruising to Trstenik, one of the most impressive and unspoiled islands along the Croatian coast. Trstenik is located in a deep bay at the foot of the hills, on the southern coast of the Peljesac peninsula and is ideal for swimming due to its beautiful pebble beach. The town is a traditional village famous for its wine growing and was built in the late 19th Century. This evening we have the opportunity to join the optional "Pirate Party" with special BBQ and traditional pirate's cuisine prepared by the captain and crew.
We didn’t leave until the afternoon meaning we had time to explore the National Park. Damien opted instead for a sleep in after a restless night on the boat. The park was nice with a two lakes and a church on an island to visit. After dragging himself out of bed Damien just walked around the coast for a bit and went snorkeling, although there was not a lot to be seen. The water was very clear and nice.
Trstenik is a beautiful little town, possibly our favourite of the tour. Definitely one of the smallest with few tourists and we were the only tour boat. After jumping off the wall into the bay for a swim and walking around to a secluded bay we headed to a vineyard for a wine tasting and few glasses of wine.
For the night we had dinner on the boat again and a Pirate Party which was a heap of fun. Dressing up (which Damien normally doesn’t do!) as pirates, drinking beers and playing games.

Day 3: Trstenik, Korcula. Today we first sail to Lumbarda beach and spend some hours here to swim, sunbath, join various activities like jetski, windsurfing and paragliding. We then continue to Korcula, the birthplace of Marco Polo. Korcula is graced with indented coves, rolling hills and a walled old town that resembles a miniature Dubrovnik. It provides plenty of opportunities for scenic drives, particularly along the southern coast. Swimming opportunities abound in the many quiet coves and secluded beaches, while the interior produces some of Croatia’s finest wine, especially dessert wines made from the grape cultivated around Lumbarda. Local olive oil is another product worth sampling out. Here you can wander the herringbone streets, visit the spot where Marco Polo lived, or grab a cocktail in the bar located on top of the old city tower.
After breakfast on the boat we pulled up for a swim. This was much nicer spot as the wind had calmed down and the current wasn’t as strong. Jumping off the side of the boat for a swim was one of the highlights of the week.
When we arrived in Korcula we had our orientation walk and then some free time for shopping and bar hopping. We then all met up to head to a cocktail bar which was in the top of a tower with great views of sunset. We all then had a seafood dinner together and headed to a street party in town. Day 4: Korcula, Hvar. After a swimming break in one of the hidden bays we continue our sail to Hvar. Hvar is the longest island in the Adriatic famous for its lavender, sage, rosemary and wine. Upon arrival, our tour leader will take us for a orientation walk on the island and show us the largest city square of the Croatian Islands and the 400 year old community theatre, the oldest in Europe. The rest of the evening is free to explore the island on your own, dine & wine in one of the traditional restaurants, visit some of the popular clubs and enjoy the night life on this beautiful island.
Sadly there was a storm forecast for the night so our boat didn’t go to Hvar town, instead we docked on the other side of the island. We took the bus across to Hvar town for a party at a beach bar. It was crazy, hundreds of people dancing on the rocks as the sunset. We then ate at a really nice local seafood restaurant and headed to a bar where we were treated to free shots and huge cocktails. We partied the night away, probably the best night of the week! Day 5: Hvar, Brac. The anchor comes up in the morning, we wave goodbye to the shores of Hvar and are bound for the island of Brac. This island is a spectacular panoramic landscape – it is the largest, driest and also contains the most astonishing mountains of all Croatian islands. Within its land contains the limestone quarries used by the ancient Romans to build amphitheaters, temples, palaces and graves all over Dalmatia. Soak up the sun, enrich yourself in the culture or just paddle around in the magic clear waters.
More swimming off the side of the boat and then we arrived in Brac. This was another fairly small town, with an amazing stone beach that moves depending on the tide. After a swim we wandered through the markets, had a huge pizza for dinner and a few drinks. The town was alive tonight, apparently one of the local soccer teams won a big game, so there were parties everywhere!
Day 6: Brac, Makarska. We arrive in Makarska after a short sail and on board breakfast we arrive at the home of the most attractive coastline nestled under the massive peaks of Biokovo mountain range with Mt Jure. Makarska is a popular resort town with a long beach (1500m) lined with palm trees, cafes, bars, restaurants and boutiques. Our tour leader will take us for an orientation walk and point out places where we can have a meal before we head to popular bars and clubs. Today you can also join an optional river rafting activity after lunch.
We were in town early today, headed to the beach for a swim, a very crowded beach. Christine headed to the markets for some shopping. Damien went for a short hike up a hill which had nice views of the peninsula, town, had a church and statue on top. It was then a quick lunch before 6 of us headed on a tour into the mountains to do the white water rafting. This was a great trip, nice scenery and calm rapids. Lots of fun to do the rafting with a group we had got to know over the last week. Definitely another highlight of the week. In the evening we went for a walk and ended up buying a print from an art shop. The group of us then went to Deep nightclub wich was an amazing bar. Built into the side of the cliff above the water the club and bar was in a stone cave. The music was a bit hardcore techno which was a bit shitty, but very cool place to sit and have a few drinks.
Day 7: Makarska, Split. This morning we cruise along the coast and take a swimming and lunch break at one of the amazing coastal beaches. After soaking up the sun, enjoying the relaxing atmosphere and finishing the final pages of your novel, we arrive in Split where we stay overnight. Split became a popular retirement destination in the 4th century for Roman emperors. Today it is renowned for its archaeological, historical and cultural monuments. The evening is free to discover the additional sights of this impressive town.
After a brief stop for a swim in a small town we sailed into our final destination, Split. We had a brief orientation walk of the town and were then left to our own devices. We checked out some markets, bought another print and Christine managed to fall down some stone step in the middle of town. We hiked up another hill to a 360 degree panoramic view and then had dinner and drinks in town and more drinks back on the boat.
Day 8: Split Our trip will end here (11:00am) in the stunning waters of Split after an on board breakfast we say goodbye to our new friends, and disembark the vessel.
We were off the boat at about 10am, and into the hire car that our friends had offered us a ride to Sarajevo. After doing a few circles trying to get out of Split it was smooth sailing as we hit the road.

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