Friday, July 30, 2010

Dubrovnik - Croatia

We arrived in Dubrovnik about midday and took the public bus from the airport into town. We walked to our accommodation, not that far on the map, but really hilly once you start walking it! Were staying at Anica Guesthouse, a private apartment that is attached to a lovely ladies house and there is a big old golden retriever for us to play with!
After a nap we walked into town for a look around. Dubrovnik is an amazing city. Built on a rock / hill jutting out into the see and completely surrounded by a huge city wall. The whole city looks immaculate, due mainly to the Serbs destroying the city in the early 1990’s.
The city has been completely rebuilt, as it was, so it looks hundreds of years old but not in a falling apart kind of way. The main streets are made of white marble paving stones and fountains and monuments are scattered throughout the city. This really is a must see European city! We ate dinner by the port in the old town in an outdoor restaurant. Lots and lots of seafood, octopus salad, squid and fresh bread!
The next morning we did the same thing, wandered down into town, checked it out in daylight. It is a very lovely place, but very crowded with tourists at times! We walked right through the old town, along the city beach and up to a Modern Art Gallery which had an exhibition Christine was interested in.
It was beautiful, sunny and warm. We had hoped to go for a swim but Christine was a bit put off by all the people on the crowded little beach so we grabbed some lunch instead.
We spent the afternoon walking on the big city walls, which were busy also, bit well worth it. Quite a long walk which took about 2 hours, at no great pace. There is great views of the city, the sea and the wall as you walk around the old town, about 50m high in places. After plenty of walking we headed back to our accommodation for dinner and a rest. We had planned on heading back into town after dinner, but it had got late and we were both exhausted so we never made it! We woke the next morning to the sight of a massive thunder storm. Still being pretty tired we headed back to bed, thankful we had done so much the previous day. By midday the sky was clearing and we were able to get out of our room. We headed towards the Copacabana Beach which was bit of a walk. Luckily about halfway there we stopped for a drink, only to realize we had not bought the wallet. Since we had hoped to take the bus home this was a real pain, so we turned around and walked back. We never made it to the beach.
We headed into town for the evening, to a couple of really cool bars. Both were holes in the wall on the ocean side. Through a small door way you climb down onto the rocks where there is a few tables and chairs and a bar. From the rocks you could also jump into the water, swim for a bit, then climb back out and have a beer. We visited two of these bars, one seemed a bit more tourist, better signed, umbrellas and higher prices. We ate another seafood dinner in town and then headed home, somehow exhausted again!

Sunday, July 25, 2010

London

For the first time we may have actually been semi excited about returning to London, although devastated about leaving Spain at the same time. Stacey (from Damien’s work in Melb) and her sister Alison were in town for a few days preparing for a Contiki tour. The night we returned home we took them out to Fulham to a bar that we had heard about but not yet been to, Elk Bar. After a feed and a bit of catch-up time, we found ourselves on the dance floor, im still not sure if it was the good company or the cheap mojito’s that inspired this move. We had a great night, but was way too late to take the train so had to negotiate London’s night buses in the light rain (after a nice sunny day) to get home.
Late the next morning we got a message from stace, saying they had only just woken up (if we weren’t still in bed I would call them lazy) and did we want to get some lunch. With no idea where to go we told them to meet us at London Bridge and took them to the Borough Market, one of our favorites’. It’s a food market, much of it is meat and veg but also some awesome antipasto, cakes, sweets and burgers. We finished the afternoon with a walk along the Thames since the weather was half decent and they got to see a few of the touristy things. Another nice day!
We were home in time for the Hawaiian Party, at our hostel. I’m sure there was a reason for the party, possibly a farewell of someone who had stayed a few weeks, any excuse to dress up and get drunk at Dean Court!
Saturday we headed to the Shoreditch festival. Just one of the suburbs of London, having a basic fair with stalls and a music stage. The sad truth is that we were going to watch the dog competition being held! Talk about being deprived. It was cool, heaps of dogs with awards for best trick, cutest, waggiest tail etc… Mel met us after work and we sat back in the grass with a few beers and enjoyed the entertainment - music and some rowdy locals.
The rest of the week was pretty subdued, we both worked in schools as much as we could although Damien didn’t get a great deal of work. We chilled out in Hyde Park and recuperated from a hectic few weeks. Damien visited the Natural history museum and science museum one day which was pretty interesting. One night in the hostel the TV didn’t even get turned on which was very exciting, people enjoyed conversations’ instead!
By Thursday we were rested up for another weekend starting with heading to the pub with our kiwi friends Jake and Felicity. We met up at The Champion, a local pub for a few quiet drinks.
Friday was not so quiet! The anticipation had been building for months! Saints v Hawks at the Walkabout! Meredith one of the chics we live with, from Tassie, a big hawks fan had been building it up since Damien put the AFL fixture on the wall in the hostel living room.
We had spent the afternoon with Mel in the Portrait Gallery and then a pub near Covent Garden. She was heading to the ballet for the evening, a poor choice we felt. We then headed out to the Walkabout in Shepherds Bush. We missed the start but it was a good close game. The game exceeded our expectations, close all the way, lead changes, we stirred each other up right through out. Of course the end was not what either of us expected, a draw, after saints were 15 points down with a few minutes to go. We couldn’t believe it!
The night was downhill from there, more drinks soothed the pain, but the band that was playing didn’t have a singer, so they got random people from the crowd up on stage to sing. Most people were surprisingly good, but not all, I don’t plan to return on a Friday night again. Oh and the Kebab for dinner was possibly the worst I have ever had!
Sunday, Damien got motivated again and headed to The Oval, in the south of London for a domestic one day game (cricket – Middlesex v Yorkshire). Learning from the Lords experience I stopped on the way to fill my bag with cold pint cans of beer. It is great going to these grounds that you grew up seeing on TV. Damien even ran on the ground with a beer in his hand and bare feet… and didn’t get arrested!
The following day the hangover was helped by the Dean Court standard issue bacon and egg breakfast. Mel was around and had the day off so we went for a trip to Greenwich. First stop was to find a coffee, I love travelling with Mel! We found one in the maritime museum of all places, so while we were there we had a look at some old ships and stuff. Then it was off to the Greenwich Time Line (GMT). This was another museum, focusing on all things time and astronomy. We had a bit of a walk through Greenwich park, around Greenwich and then down to the Thames River. Sadly these nice outings will be limited, as Mel has decided she is heading back to Aus in a few months, leaving the Sheridan’s to tough out another cold winter alone.
Then there was only a few things left to do before our trip to Croatia, washing packing and organizing our travel documents, Eastern Europe, here we come!

Sunday, July 11, 2010

San Sebastian

The next campsite was in a small town called Zarautz (San Pelaio). There is a long clean beach which a group of us went down to for a swim once we arrived in the afternoon. Only a bit warmer than Cornwall! The sun was out and lying on the beach was very relaxing! The crew that were left (about 15 of us), headed into town for dinner and drinks. We found ourselves sitting in a cafe on the foreshore drinking a really strong but delicious sangria! After sunset we wandered along the beach, sat around an esky full of cold beers for a few hours and then headed back to camp.
Next morning we were up to enjoy breakfast, but not to serve, woo hoo! We did help out with the packing up of the campsite, but this didn’t take long, there was only about 60 tents and 15 crew. Once the tents were down a few of us went for a short hike up the cliffs to a view back over the beach. It was a really nice view and again, another bright sunny day! After our walk we had another swim and some lunch in town at a nice little pincho’s bar we had walked past the other day. After saying some more goodbyes to the remaining crew we jumped back on the train and headed to our hostel. Our first morning in San Sebastian we were keen to get out an about and have a look around the town that so many people rave about. Our hostel is very basic, feels like its someones apartment with bunk beds throughout. The lounge room even sleeps 8 people, including Christine the first night as no rooms had two spare beds the first night! It is in a great location, just on the edge of the old town. We headed into the old town and found a square with a few café’s for some breakfast. The first thing you notice is that it is a lovely old town, with more great pincho’s, but once you order them you notice how much more expensive it is than the smaller Spanish villages. After breakfast we headed down to the port and then spent the day walking around the bay. The bay is very sheltered from the swell as there is a big island in the middle of the entrance to the bay. At the end of the beach are some wonderful sculptures. They are large pieces of rusted iron stuck into the side of the cliffs and rocks in the water. The cliffs are also quite impressive and the pavement has been done in such a way to create some blowholes with the waves crashing in under the pavement.
We then took a cable car ride to the top of the hill (Monte Igueldo). On top of this hill is an amusement park for kids, but also some spectacular views of the bay and San Sebastian.
After a siesta back at the hostel it was time to get the party started, tonight was the final of the soccer world cup, Spain v Netherlands, which are 2 of the teams Damien has been supporting throughout the tournament. We strolled through the old town looking for a bar that wasn’t too busy as Christine wanted a seat, but quickly became apparent that this was not going to happen. She wasn’t feeling 100% so she decided to head back to the hostel.
The night was great fun, sadly no massive screen and the majority of the crowd were tourists, but the old town was jumping, every bar was jam packed. Most of the game I stood in the street, watching the game through the door way, partially because it was so hard to get inside, and partially once inside its so hot and smoky that you just want fresh air. It was also quicker and cheaper to buy beer at the convenient stores (a backpackers trick) rather than the bars!
Things I remember about the evening, Soccer, even at the highest level is a boring game, I was partying with a lot of French who had come across the border for the night, Aussies, other random tourists and people from the South of Spain. Some of the bars, I guess the real hardcore Basque people, weren’t even showing game. These bars were far quieter, so a good spot to run into to get something to eat. Eventually, someone scored, a Spanish player, Woo Hoo, and with not much time remaining the whole town was just going nuts for the remainder of the game. After a few more celebratory beverages Damien decided it was time to call it a night and find the hostel. Great in theory, but walking home I stumbled into about 10 of the crew from Pamplona. It would have been rude not to join them for a drink, it had been 2 days since I had seen some of them!
The next morning was a bit of a slow start! I woke up with an empty plastic beer cup beside my bed. The funny thing was, it was a 750ml cup, where the hell did this come from!?! Christine also told me when I got home I had gone to the kitchen in the hostel and found a group of Scandinavians looking for bread, apparently I was only too happy to oblige, getting our day old baguette and hoeing into some bread and nutella with them at some early hour of the morning!
After a morning siesta down by the port while Christine ran back to the hostel to get a jumper we walked out around the headland. There was another big iron sculpture, but not as cool as yesterdays. We then climbed up the hill to where the giant Jesus Statue sits at the top. There was a museum of the history of the town, some old fort ruins and great views.
After our walk and more pinchos for lunch we headed to the beach for a relax and a swim. It was very nice chilling not doing anything and the swim refreshing, but it seemed the beach was very dirty. Lots of rubbish floating in the water, not the nicest of Spanish beaches we have seen. To extend our beach time we ended up buying some food at a market and then sitting on the beach eating a picnic and watching the sun set. That night we got talking to Nazareth in our hostel. She is living there over summer, but is normally from Madrid. She wants to learn English and seems to be at about the same level we are at with Spanish (somewhere between minimal and basic). It was nice talking to her and we ended up organizing to head to the beach together the next morning.
We were up at a reasonable hour as it was our last day in San Sebastian and wanted to get in a swim before taking the bus in the mid afternoon. We packed and headed out for a quick breakfast before returning to the hostel to wake and collect Nazareth. We then spent a few hours sun baking, chatting ‘spanglish’ and swimming. It was really nice to be able to chat to someone who was just starting to speak English (many Spanish speak English quite well), and was happy to put up with our ‘baby spanish’. Our bus took us back to Bilbao, where we first were 3 weeks ago. When we walked into the hostel we were staying at, we were amazed to see one of the passengers from Pamplona, who had then been in the same hostel as us in San Sebastian and now in Bilbao. She is also doing a blog, but focusing mainly on the food she eats rather than the places she has been, quite interesting, I will find the link and you should check it out! We just had a quiet night, feeding ourselves from the supermarket, although Damien did manage to drink a bottle of Spanish Red wine on his own, was quite nice!
Our last day in Spain the trip we didn’t have any plans, we had seen and done most of Bilbao when we were first here. Damien did want to buy some Hazelnut Schnapps that the PP Travel guys had been drinking, at 3 euro a bottle seemed like good value! Sadly we didn’t find any, not that we looked too hard!
We ended up taking the metro to Portugalete, about 30 min ride, on the advice of the girl at the hostel. This was a suburb of Bilbao, but at the mouth of a river. After a quick look around we were recommended Café Nautica for lunch. We had the 12 euro set menu, which was amazing. 3 courses and also included a bottle of water, red wine and coffee. The entrees were amazing, we both had fish for main and Christine chose both the desserts (that’s her thing!). The service was also good, the waitress didn’t speak English, but was still super helpful. After lunch we crossed the river on a gondola type bridge thing, apparently there is only a couple like it in the world. Christine decided she wanted to walk across the top of the bridge so she did this to get a good view and cheap thrill. We wandered along the coast, saw some amazing properties we could easily live in, and had a sit on the beach, still full from the huge lunch! After a bit of a look around Algorta, the suburb we had ended up in we jumped back on the train and headed back to the hostel. A few beers and another bottle of that red wine and we called it a night, preparing for an early flight back to London in the morning.

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

San Fermin - Pamplona

After an unbelievable day, we were on the bus again the following day. Again another short ride this time to a small town called Estella. We slept in a bit too long and missed the morning buses meaning we had a few hours to kill before the afternoon buses. This didn’t matter too much, we ate baguette and left over tortilla and olives. The bus ride was nice and scenic, although the roads through the hills weren’t helping how Christine was feeling.
We are staying in a campsite about a kilometer outside of Estella. For the next week we will be part of a travel company, PP Travel, ground crew. We were one of the first to arrive, most people were arriving the following day. Upon arrival we had a swim in the campsite swimming pool and then a few beers with the guys that had already arrived. When they found out that it was Damien’s birthday he was treated to a beer funnel or 3! Something we would get used to over the next few days.
The following day about 1pm we met the rest of the crew (about 25 in total) and started work. Over the next two days (about 10 hrs all up) we set up over 200 tents in the caravan park, just in time for the forecast thunder storm. Due to the heat, we also got to fight a fire in the paddock next door to the park. We had it out by the time the fire brigade arrived, which was amusing to see them amble in, have a look around and just leave. Luckily the storm didn’t hit too bad and only a handful of tents needed repairs, meaning Saturday we only worked for about an hour in the morning and then had the day to ourselves.
We were not being paid for our time but the company was great to us. Besides the 1000 cans of beer, vodka, sangria and schnapps they bought for us, we obviously got a free tour and accommodation, breakfast as well as lunch and dinner on our longer days working. They were all really nice and enjoyed partying every night with us.
Saturday was basically a day off so we enjoyed a swim and lazed by the pool. Christine had been (trying) talking to the locals and had got us an invite to have lunch at one of their caravans. We ate with an old couple, their caravan neighbor and her two kids. The kids spoke a bit of English, but most of our conversation was in Spanish which was fun, our dictionary got a work out! The food was great, meat grilled over hot coals, bread, salad and plenty of booze. They actually have houses quite nearby but spend weekends and holidays at the caravan park. They were lovely, very friendly and great cooks. We had a wonderful afternoon.
Sunday was our first breakfast duty. The campsite is still pretty empty, so it was fairly cruisy, but bit of a test run for when all the guests arrive. Its nothing flash, bread, boiled eggs, cereal, fruit, tea and coffee. We basically just set up a big production line, handing out food as the guests come through. This only lasts about an hour and a half, once were cleaned up there is only one thing left – debrief. Debrief occurs whenever we finish, usually 8 or 9am. It starts with an esky of cold beers being dumped in front of us and beers passed around. They then tell us what time we start the next day. There is the ‘Dick-of-the-day’ award, which involves stupid acts and stories being shared of the previous day. The ‘winner’ then has to carry around a giant shuttlecock everywhere they go for the next 24 hours. The last part of debrief is the penalties, again for anything that happened in the past 24 hours, people are forced to take a beer through the funnel. Unless of course this is deemed too enjoyable for them, in which case a mix of corn flakes, raw egg, mustard, salt, pepper and milk will be added to the beer! Today I think half the crew were drunk by 10:15…
After a swim and siesta we headed into town with Justin, one of the other crew and climbed up to some old building ruins on a mountain with a view over the city. This was a pretty easy walk, about 30 minutes, but led us to a big iron cross on a peak. At the top we were joined by one of the passengers who told us he had just bought his brother a gift. The gift was a harry potter book, in Spanish, everytime he goes away he has bought him a harry potter in a different language, unique and cool gift idea!
Heading into town we had some lunch in the nice little Spanish bar that we watched the soccer at the other night (Spain won again!). Some shopping, walked up another hill on the otherside of town, an alcohol run and we headed back to camp for a picnic dinner.
We had had some pretty solid nights so far this week, including welcome drinks for the crew and a rocket fuel/sangria night, but tonight was where the party really starts! Most of the 500 passengers have now arrived at the camp and Top Deck is on the other side of the park with 300 passengers. PP Travel have bought over an entertainer who tonight played a set with a guitar and backing cds, it was you classic aussie anthems (think men at work, barnsey and john farnham amongst more recent pop tunes). It was an awesome night, plenty of Kali Mucho, dancing and revelry. Amongst the antics were one of the guys that is crew with us running through the dancefloor in a blue bikini and one of the girls being whisked around the campsite in a shopping trolley until that became boring at which point she was launched into the kiddie’s swimming pool!
After a solid 3-4 hours sleep the crew was up to prepare breakfast. Today is the biggest day of the tour, San Fermin. San Fermin is a huge street party in Pamplona and the opening ceremony for the running of the bulls which continues the rest of the week. Everyone was keen to get into Pamps so as soon as breakfast was finished, we cleaned up in a hurry and got stuck into the beers.
We arrived at Pamplona about 11am, which was actually pretty good timing. Gave us time to look around a bit and get a spot in the main square in time for the ceremony at midday. At midday the crowd holds up their red handkerchiefs and starts chanting “San Fermin”, who is a saint, asking for his blessing. A rocket is then launched into the sky, and everyone ties their red handkerchiefs around their neck.
Next came the popping of champagne corks and the spray of champagne throughout the crowd which progressed gradually into sangria spray and anything else people could get their hands on (ketchup, mustard, flour etc.). Once adequately covered in Sangria we headed for the side streets where once again the locals were out on their balconies with hoses and buckets of water. This time the crowd pleads up to them “Agua, agua, agua!” (Spanish for water), and eventually they would comply by pouring the buckets of water all over the crowd.
The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering around the town, every street and alley was packed with people partying. We met some friendly locals, way too many aussies and a girl who Damien went to primary school with. The consumption of sangria was rampant, Damien making his way through 6 litres of the stuff, although some of this was shared and spilt! Despite getting separated from the rest of the crew, and each other, we had an amazing time and both managed to get on the right bus back to the campsite in the afternoon. San Fermin is by far the highlight of the running off the bulls tours.
Back at camp it was time for a shower, swim and siesta. But the day was far from done, after siesta, the night kicked off again down by the pool, with more excessive beer consumption and a DJ set by the same guy as last night, this time minus the guitar. The night was equally as wild, although only about half the camp was their tonight, the grueling day had obviously taken its toll on some! The memory of the night is somewhat blurry (huge understatement), Damien had to be told a few days later that all of this occurred on one day, his memory thought it was actually 2 separate days!
The next morning was the first bull run meaning that we had a sleep in as breakfast isn’t until the passengers return at about 10am. We were on breakfast duty today, with half of the crew heading in for the run with the passengers at 5.30am. After breakfast the day was spent lazing in the sun, swimming and recovering from the mayhem of the past 36 hours! By the afternoon things were starting to fire up again as we all headed into Pamplona for the evening. The main destination was Boogie Street, a carpark that for this week of the year is turned into a series of bars and outdoor clubs! Tonight was the easiest we took it, spending part of our night having a bit of a look around the town of Pamplona. The highlight of the night was being back in the main square for the Spain v Germany game which was being shown on a huge screen in front of thousands of people. Despite still being in Basque country, the crowd was on Spain’s side, with at least half the crowd being Aussies, and the rest was mainly other Europeans and tourists from the south of Spain. It was the biggest atmosphere we got for a game in the whole of the world cup, when Spain scored and when the final whistle was blown the crowd went nuts! Another high scoring soccer match (1-0). The night finished with a fireworks display, before we headed back to camp to prepare for the Bull Run tomorrow.
Another handy 3-4 hours sleep and we were up at 5am and on the bus by 5.30am. The coaches get us into town for the bull run nice and early, about 6.30 meaning we had a bit of time to wonder around, find the encierro (bull ring). We got into the ring and had seats in the front row which was great. Leading up to San Fermin, Damien was still considering running, but after the last 3 days of partying and lack of sleep the decision to sit and watch was quite easy. Its not actually the bulls that are the most concern, its all the other people and the stone streets that are the main cause of injury. Also the idea of doing Sail Croatia in 3 weeks, with an arm in plaster because someone tripped me over on the stone streets really didn’t appeal!
The run itself was great to see, nowhere near as gruesome as I had hoped, but the atmosphere and craziness of it all was pretty cool. The passengers on the tour come in for two runs, the crew only come in once, but this is enough. Many of the passengers opted for a sleep in rather seeing it twice anyway. Once the big bulls have cleared out of the ring, small bulls with corked horns are released into the crowded bull ring to entertain the crowd.
The whole experience has been amazing, but for me, there are far too many tourists. Most of the tours will be gone tomorrow so the later bull runs are probably a bit less touristy. The Wine Battle in Haro was a far better Spanish experience in our eyes.
That said being part of the crew has been great. We have met some really nice people, and a few really crazy people. As the tour company says, the crew generally have a better time than the passengers, which I think has definitely happened this year!
After the Bull Run we were back at camp for breakfast. Once this was done it was the crews time to pull down the 200 tents we had set up only a week ago. This was a much easier assignment than the set up and after about 3 hours most of the tents were done with the last hour or two being bit of a slowdown in productivity, and a big clean up of the rubbish left around the camp. The afternoon was spent drinking more beer by the pool and then in the evening we headed into town with a few of the crew and had steaks for dinner, which were huge and the Basque are good at cooking.
Once the tents were down our duties as crew were finished, but we have been invited to head up to the beach camp which one of the tours use after their visit to Pamplona. This was very convenient as it meant another 2 nights of accommodation and is a nice small town and beach just around from San Sebastian, which was our next planned stop.
Bull Run Video 2010



Happy Birthday Bro!